In every area of shoemaking, quality and performance vary depending on the materials used and the overall level of care with which the products are manufactured. In Goodyear's shoe making process, there are some important processes that clearly show why so much technology and attention to detail is needed to produce the best products.
Bottom with welt
The insole is the basis of the shoe, because the subsequent process of each step depends on its preparation. In particular, the positioning of the inner sole along the strip directly affects the strength and final appearance of the shoes. Many people think that the inner bottom strip is simply bonded around the inner bottom edge at a fixed distance from the edge. In fact, this distance needs to be changed no less than 5 times. The strip must also start and end at precise points, which are marked on the inner bottom in advance to help accurately sew the strip.
Although the settings vary depending on the thickness of the upper material and the type of stripe along it. The setting of the waist is wider, and the appearance of the shoes produced is more beautiful (the lighter the shoes, the narrower the waist). The wider waistband setting also prevents the sole stitching from swinging to the outer edge of the heel belly wall. The narrower stitching makes the bottom line stand out further from the upper, which adds personality when looking at the finished shoes. Considering that the toe movement needs to increase the thickness, the middle equivalent is set at the toe.
The inner lining is a technical operation. Because the inner bottom is operated by a machine, the setting has to be changed gradually. The operator must perform four tasks at the same time. The right foot controls speed and the left foot controls cutting. Right hand control setting (red handle), left hand controls the insole. In most other processes, the insole is only considered one of many components. They are all crucial in Goodyear's process.
The recognized machines that perform this operation are manufactured by Prime manufacturing in the United States. In recent years, due to the mechanization of the sewing process, several different versions have been produced. But in many cases, the machines used today are older than the operators. This is the case with many professional machines that produce shoes that match the market opportunities. In this market, there is no need to use brand-new machines, and the manufacturing quality of ready-made equipment is very high and sustainable. However, Bima has recently introduced a new type of internal strip laminating machine, which features ergonomic design and improved installation devices.
Typical setting of inner stripe
Use inner border
The center area of the vertical inner strip on the USM
Handle the toe in the process of sewing along the strip
The standard Goodyear inner edge is vertical, so the traditional front upper needs to be equipped with a middle plate that fits the inner edge. In this way, the wiper blade compresses the upper, making it close to the inner edge of the support instead of pushing it flat. Without it, the seam line will be more difficult and less accurate, and additional pressure will be applied on the inner line to bond with the insole. Some companies supply already assembled independent molds for stringing work, but traditional molds can also change the settings of toe straps and sweepers by adding raised midsole plates.
The modern sliver sewing machine is very complex and still depends on a large number of operator technology. The shoes must be fixed so that the first and last stitching can be carried out at a relatively high position on the inner edge strip. The stitching ends at the heel belly wall to prevent the fish tail phenomenon mentioned above. It is also important to smooth along the toe and make sure that the awl penetrates the upper and inner edge of the shoe and fits into the upper line at a consistent angle. Failure to do so will result in exposure to the bottom, where stitches can be seen on the edge of the leather, indicating poor manufacturing. But without good sliver, even the best sliver sewing workers can not produce good results. World footwear magazine once analyzed the problems of Barbour company from November to December 2006. This paper clearly shows that it is necessary to be careful in the production of the company to provide high-quality shoes. At present, the development of slitting equipment includes automatic lubrication and variable speed engine with low noise and vibration.
Operate the second edge guide at the joint
Sewing soles in grooves
The line structure of Goodyear
Cut the outer bottom edge
Many experts believe that cutting the outer sole is the highest technical requirement in all processes of Goodyear, because it not only produces the final shape of the sole, but also cuts out the groove and receives the lock suture connected to the strip. So accuracy is crucial. The shape is controlled by two guides. Basic crease guide along the seam, only for the waist. The operator controls the second guide of the foot pedal control before stitching and releases it on the other side. This guide rod is directly above the line along the side of the last, so the outsole sewing is not too close to the seam along the line.
In addition to heavy shoes, it is traditional to sew soles in grooves, because this method can sew clean soles and conceal any inferior sewing. At present, this method has almost disappeared because of the cost of additional operations needed to open and close the trench. It is also more difficult to cut grooves precisely. The key of the two methods is to ensure that the groove is deep enough that the fusible cord of the outsole is low enough below the grain surface of the sole, but not too low to weaken the strength of the suture. Therefore, the setting of the cutter is very important in two cases. It is also very important to soften the sole properly, especially for the method of grooving, because it helps to achieve the accuracy and opening and closing of the groove edge.
Many old machines are still in use. They are designed to provide powerful